nomadsally: Jinghong Region I

Jinghong Region

A Traditional Dai Home

YouJinghong, Xishuangbanna in southern tropical China, sharing it's southern order with Burma and Laos. Compared to most Chinese cities, it is relatively small with only 180,000 people.

Its name comes from the Thai language meaning "12,000 Rice Growing Districts". Tropical rainforest areas and jungles dot the region and there is a a wide array of exotic plants and animals with dwindling numbers of wild tigers, elephants, leopards,and gold-haired monkeys We are here during the dry seasons with comfortable days in the 70's and 80's.

As many as fourteen different minority ethnic groups live within the prefecture and many accessible from Jinghong. One third of the population are of the Dai, another third are Han Chinese and the rest is made up of a conglomerate of minorities that include the Hani (Akha), Yi, Lisu and Yao, as well as lesser-known hill tribes such as the Aini, Jinuo, Bulang, Lahu, and Wa.

Approaching Jinghong by bus, we passed fields of sugar cane, tobacco, banana plantations, tea plants, Norfolk Island pines, bougainvilleas, red and white poinsettias and elegant royal palm trees. After passing through at least 20 tunnels on a relatively new spacious toll road, we gathered our suitcases and hailed a taxi for the Forest Cafe and Sara, our local contact. The taxi driver could never understand us so he dropped us at the Mekong Cafe and met Sara there.

My first impressions of the area were rather negative: a fourth floor room that lacked basic amenities (bath towels) and no sign of ethnic minority people on the streets as we walked walked around town. Fortunately, that mood changed after we found more comfortable lodging at the Jinghong Hotel and made plans to visit minority villages with Sara.

Manruandian Village

That afternoon, Sara and I took off in taxi to visit a nearby Dai village and maybe find some weavers. About one hundred Dai families live in this pleasant village located on the outskirts of Jinghong.

Sara explained that the the Dai people have lived in this area ever since they were pushed southward from the Yangzi River Valley by the invading Mongols in the 13th century. She explained that there are many different groups of Dai - up to five kinds live in Xishuangbanna. The main group is called Shui Dai or Water Dai. They are also known as the Tai Lu in northern Laos and Thailand.

The have always lived in spacious wooden houses and bamboo houses raised on stilts. Today, though, more of their houses are being made of bricks. The most common Dai foods are sticky rice, fish, bananas, oranges, and lots of their regional Pu'er tea. The women I visited were wearing tight short blouses in a bright color and a printed sarong with a belt of silver links.

Traditional Home

Peaking into a house along the narrow walkway,I was delighted to spot a fully dressed loom with a pattern of rich reds and creams. Luckily we were invited to talk with the weaver. I was excited to learn about the status of weaving today. I had read that not too long ago, most Dai village women did spin and weave beautiful textiles. Their cultural traditions such as courting illustrate the important role of textiles.

With Sara translating, I learned that there are less than 20 looms in the100 village homes. Very disappointing. Are the weavers primarily older women? How many young women are learning to weave?

Some of my questions were answered when I visited a village home. There were two active looms and the little three year old girl, Yu-Ying-Han was standing at her grandmother's loom carefully pushing the shuttle through with her little hands, and changing harnesses as she stood. Her grandmother, Yu-Jing-Hai sat a distance away quietly encouraging her. I was amazed and thrilled.

We visited another home where there were five dressed looms with colorful patterns. I soon learned that an experienced Dai weaver helped establish this weaving workshop, now a part of Banna Technical College. The weaving is time consuming and it seems to be difficult to market their unique pieces. One woman told me she weave about 1.5 meters a day and makes about 40 Yuan. That would amount to 1 3/4 yard for $7.00.