Showing posts with label Jinghong. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jinghong. Show all posts

Friday, December 16, 2011

Jinghong Region I

Jinghong Region


                            A Traditional Dai Home
                                             


            YouJinghong, Xishuangbanna in southern tropical China, sharing it's southern order with Burma and Laos.  Compared to most Chinese cities, it is relatively small with only 180,000 people.
           Its name comes from the Thai language meaning "12,000 Rice Growing Districts".  Tropical rainforest areas and jungles dot the region and there is a a wide array of exotic  plants and animals with dwindling numbers of wild tigers, elephants, leopards,and gold-haired monkeys   We are here during the dry seasons with comfortable days in the 70's and 80's.

            As many as fourteen different minority ethnic groups live within  the prefecture and many accessible from Jinghong.  One third of the population are of the Dai, another third are Han Chinese and the rest is  made up of a conglomerate of minorities that include the Hani (Akha), Yi, Lisu and Yao, as well as lesser-known hill tribes such as the  Aini, Jinuo,  Bulang,  Lahu, and Wa.

             Approaching Jinghong by bus, we passed fields of sugar cane, tobacco, banana plantations, tea plants, Norfolk Island pines, bougainvilleas, red and white poinsettias and elegant royal palm trees.  After passing  through at least 20 tunnels on a relatively new spacious toll road, we gathered our suitcases and hailed a taxi for the Forest Cafe and Sara, our local contact.  The taxi driver could never understand us so he dropped us at the Mekong Cafe and met Sara there.

            My first impressions of the area were rather negative: a fourth floor room that lacked basic amenities (bath towels) and no sign of ethnic minority people on the streets as we walked walked around town.  Fortunately, that mood changed after we found more comfortable lodging at the Jinghong Hotel and made plans to visit minority villages with Sara.


           
Manruandian Village

     That afternoon, Sara and I took off in taxi to visit a nearby Dai village and maybe find some weavers.  About one hundred Dai families live in this pleasant village located on the outskirts of Jinghong.

      Sara explained that the the Dai people have lived in this area ever since they were pushed southward from the Yangzi River Valley by the invading Mongols in the 13th century.  She explained that there are many different groups of Dai - up to five kinds live in Xishuangbanna.  The main group is called Shui Dai or Water Dai.  They are also known as the Tai Lu in northern Laos and Thailand.

            The have always lived in spacious wooden houses and bamboo houses raised on stilts.  Today, though, more of their houses are being made of bricks.  The most common Dai foods are sticky rice, fish, bananas, oranges, and lots of their regional Pu'er tea.  The women I visited  were wearing tight short blouses in a bright color and a printed sarong with a belt of silver links.
           

Traditional Home


             Peaking into a house along the narrow walkway,I was delighted to spot a fully dressed loom with a pattern of rich reds and creams.  Luckily we were invited to talk with the weaver.   I was excited to learn about the status of weaving today. I had read that not too long ago, most Dai village women did spin and weave beautiful textiles.  Their cultural traditions such as courting illustrate the important role of textiles.

     With Sara translating, I learned that there are less than 20 looms in the100 village homes.  Very disappointing. Are the weavers primarily older women?  How many young women are learning to weave?

            Some of my questions were answered when  I visited a village home.  There were two active looms and the little three year old girl, Yu-Ying-Han was standing at her grandmother's loom carefully pushing the shuttle through with her little hands, and changing harnesses as she stood.  Her grandmother, Yu-Jing-Hai sat a distance away quietly encouraging her.  I was amazed and thrilled. 


            We visited another home where there were five dressed looms with colorful patterns.  I soon learned that an experienced Dai weaver helped establish this weaving workshop, now a part of Banna Technical College.  The weaving is time consuming and it seems to be difficult to market their unique pieces.  One woman told me she weave about 1.5 meters a day and makes about 40 Yuan.  That would amount to 1 3/4 yard for $7.00.



                                              Three Year Old Yu-Ying-Ham at the Loom




                                                             Jinghong Views


                                                  Crossing the Mekong in Jinghong




                                                       School Ethnic Day in Jinghong




                                                         Fabulous Hot Pot Soup


Holiday Dress











             Our Great Hotel In Jinghong

Saturday, December 10, 2011

Menghai Market,Paper Village,Old Village


Last day in Jinghong Region
            December 3, 2011




                               Menghai Market


     We woke up to jubilation and women singing.  I imagined that it was the continuation of the Akha celebration.  There they were in our little park taking a rest stop on their way to a village festival!


      Market Scenes

Who Knows?


Checking Out the Treasures

Dai Woman

Mushrooms

Tofu

A Great Buy!

Fire Water




Last day in Jinghong Region
            December 3, 2011




                                         














       




                    
                

                               
Menghai Market ranks as one of the top markets we have been able
to visit...It is orderly, quiet, and offers almost everything one would need.  The fruits ad vegetable diversity is way beyond anything I have known. 



Manzao Village - Paper Making  

      Clean, concrete walkways throughout this successful village of about 1300 meters altitude.  Everywhere we saw women preparing the various steps for their mulberry paper making.  The men go to their mulberry trees in the forest near the village and cut the bark off the trees.  Then the women clean the bark, soak it, prepare it for the grinding machine, sack the mulberry paste,  soak it again in order to prepare it for the drying screens, after which the screens with thin or thick mulberry paste are smoothed and placed to dry in the sun standing upright.  The village is also engaged in tea, rice,   and vegetable production. 




Paper Drying In Sun



Smoothing Paper Before Drying

Helpers

Village Center


                Tropical Landscape in Village


Paper Ready to Sell

Temple Paintings of Buddha's Life

Peacocks, Symbols of the Dai People

Dai Village Entry Gate

Cleaning the Mulberry Bark Before Papermaking








        This totally organic product is essential for wrapping the precious Pu'er tea from these mountains.  It's also a geat paper for photo mounting, painting, Buddhist texts, and treasured throughout the world.  I love the smell of it....

    


 








































































Paper Pulp Leaving Blender
































Artisanal Tea Shop
           Tea culture, we have found out, is a most complex process.  It's similar to wine in  many ways.  The various fermentation and aging processes, storage containers, marketing, tremendous pricing variation, health impact, and general mystic.

            I'm going to briefly describe this valuable Pu'er tea of Xiishuangbanna and then list the four basic kinds of teas and a few comments of each. 
            In this region are six world famous tea mountains.  People come from all over China, Taiwan, Japan to buy the organically prepared Pu'er Tea.  The Tea Road has been alive even longer than the Silk Road and still is vibrant in Xishuangbanna today.

            The label for the totally organic tea that we are tasting carries the following location:

Menghai (county) Menghun  (town) Minggu (village) great tea 350y for 200 gram.  The area is very near the Burma border.

           
            There are  four kinds of  tea with various preparations:

            Green Tea

            Black Tea - has a one day fermentation, ages naturally
            Sunsha- is put in cakes and let to ferment or cook slowly
            Shoxa - called cooked tea
           

Sunsha put in cake and let ferment naturally slow

Black tea a one day fermentation and let it age


Man-Diyu-Old Dai Village







Beautiful Setting


Importance of School
Village Story



Community Well








Advice in Dai and Chinese Language

           


Dai Women of Village


            Located outside of Ga-Sa town.
            Charming village marked by Dai traditional gateway with a daily street market alongside the winding walls of the  traditional Dai style home.   Lily ponds, traditional banyan village tree, wall art throughout depicting the right way to live, village tailor, silversmith making the Dai traditional apparel.  On top of the village hillside resides the village Temple..

              Xishungbanna has been a fascinating adventure.  Visiting the little unique ethnic    villages nestled throughout the hillsides was thrilling.  Investigating the ways of making a living added much understanding of village ways and life.  We are so grateful to all the people who helped us along the way: hotel guest house staffs, Mr.Peng, our kind driver, Jacky at Yuan Yang, in Jinghong area, sSara of Forest Cafe, Greg and Pierre, of Mekong Cafe, fellow travelers along the way, and most of all the kind Chinese people who almost always provided us the greatest kindnesses.




Rubber Plantation, Akha Village and Wedding



Rubber Plantation, Akha Village and Wedding


                                    Rubber Tree Production and Drying Rubber and Wedding




Akha Rubber Village near Jinghong






See the Rubber Dripping Towards Cup






























                                                          Sap Dripping from Tree           










Rubber Cakes  Drying


Eric, Plantation Owner and Jim with Rubber

         


            Eric, a French import, and his Akha wife, Samiya are developing a rubber plantation in the middle of a mountain just ouside of Jinghong.  Even though it is only about 25 kilometers distance, the primitive bumpy trail makes it seem centuries away.  Due to the difficulty of transportation, few motorcycles or 4-wheel drive vehicles, not one villager had traveled to Jinghong ten years ago.   Now the city is totally accessible to many. 
           
            Akha area mountain people were moved there some twenty years ago as government strategy to eliminate opium production and provide a community life.  Their land  belonged to Samiya's family and when Eric entered the picture, he has worked hard to plant new trees, improve production, find viable markets, diversify the land with coffee trees growing below the rubber trees, and build a new 3,000 square feet with an indoor bathroom.   Eric said he and the family take care of all the work of their  1200-1600 trees  since outsiders tend to take advantage of the growers.  

            During the warm season, each tree must be cut at night to allow the rubber to drip into the clay cup.  The next morning before it is too hot, the sap must be collected from each tree, and taken to market or made into rubber cakes for drying.   The land is vertical in some areas and there are insects, snakes, mosquitoes, and poisonous millipedes.  Interesting life and hard work during the season.

            Upon returning  from the village toilet located on boards in the open air, I saw a woman standing and  spinning in the Andean style.
                                






















                        Hand  Spinning in Village
















            Lunch followed inside Samiya's mother's home.  A little round table filled with plates of Akha traditional food prepared by Samiya's aunt was set right by a huge wok filled with food for the pigs who watched us eat.  Lots of corn base firewater and beer   heated the conversations and spirits.  I found the meat dishes to be difficult to look at with chicken feet staring at me and bony pieces of meat.  But, the wild mountain greens and cabbage dishes were delicious. 





















Akha Dress


Pretty Pigs Sat Nearby As We Ate




At Spinning Wheel







My Akha Sisters


Eric and Greg with Akha Gals





            After lunch the women of the of the family put on their Akha ethnic dress and showed me their two spinning techniques: spinning wheel and hand spinninig stick.  Of  course they insisted that I manipulate both.  Eventually, I managed to spin some thread with each method, but with little grace!







It's Heavy


The Gracious Cook in Akha Head Cover


                                      Akha Headdress


                                                                                






Akha  Men:  Pierre and Jim
         

            After the textile show, we traveled along the mountain trail to attend an Akha  wedding. Hundreds of people from all over the area converged in a very basic village to eat and wish the bride and groom a happy life.  Only one woman was wearing any indication of village style. More of the same food and drinks...I was feeling somewhat rocky with the long day and empty stomach.


The Wedding Party



Beautiful and Sweet Bride and Groom


Wedding Party


Wonderful Feast with Firewater Too!


Only Akha Ethnic Clothing at Wedding Celebration



                                               
            It was wonderful visit and Eric was a delightful bright and hard working host. He seems to love his Akha rubber plantation.  It was quite a day and I certainly ad a better feel and understanding of the Akha lifestyle.  They have made great strides since their move to the village setting, but it is still a basic "close to nature' existence.
What a grand day!