Saturday, December 10, 2011

The Exotic Rice Fields of YuanYang, Yunnan, SW China














Views of Rice Paddies 



11/18/11

                   The Exotic Rice Terraces of YUANYANG Region


     You have probably seen many views of the photogenic area of Yuanyang...30,000 acres of rice fields in the Ailao Mountains reaching from almost 6000 feet altitude to the base of Red River valley.  An inspiring view especially considering that the Hani people have continued developing these terraces for several thousands years.  These terraced hillsides are a photographer's delight, and people travel from all parts of the world for the perfect glistening view. China is trying to have this region registered as a World Heritage Site.

           
     Yuanyang is divided into two areas: Nansha, new village along the Red River and Xingie,old town near the top of the mountains.  En route we stopped for lunch in the dominant Han town of Xingie.  It serves as the administration and commercial  hub for much of the region.  I found a small textile piece of old Akha embroidery.  It is difficult to come upon these pieces today in Yunnan.                   

                                                   Yi Ethnic Group Girls









Hani Women in Market

Yi Group Going to Market
    

     Dozens of small ethnic villages fan out from Xingie.   We chose to stay in Duoyishu, a Hani Minority village, for the great sunrise on the terraces below and the only Guest House with English-speaking in the entire region.  Jacky's (opened only a month before  our arrival) was a comfortable stay (especially with the electric blankets for the cold nights and mornings).  Jacky is Hani but has traveled extensively in Asia with a  French photographer and studied English at  Xian University .  Wonderful vegetable dishes filled Jacky's table, as well as great conversations with the other French and Belgiian guests.  Our driver, Mr. Peng was such an addition during this journey.  He put on an apron and helped cook with Jacky and his mother, Pu.   A great driver and sweet hard-working person.


Jacky's Guest House



Hani Neighbors


Neighbor is Drying Dung


     As you can imagine the roadway was like a carnival ride with so many horseshoe curves, ascents, descents, and tunnels up to two miles in length.  Along the route
trucks horns were blaring followed by three wheeled minivans, pigs, water buffaloes, chickens, loads of bricks, motorcycles, busses, orange and banana stands, market stalls, bamboo trees, loads of logs, bricks...
             
            Here and there were dozens of small ethnic villages (Hani, Akha,Yi, Miao) of stucco houses and thatched roofs hanging onto pockets of level ground amidst the immense hillsides.  My stomach wasn't too happy with the journey. But the landscape made up for the discomfort.

            There seemed to be a village market somewhere most days of the week.  Sunday market day in Sheng Cun was our highlight.   Hani, Nisu Yi, and Aini ethnic people filled the main street market with every kind of transport, produce, kitchen supplies, clothing, chickens, pigs, conversation, and stares.  The variety of vegetables and fruits in this tropical highland region on the Tropic if Cancer is amazing....These market moments are exhausting as I try to respectfully document the women and their incredible dress. 

            We decided against a four hour round trip to the Huangmaoling market - too exhausting!

Observations:
            Schools peppered the countryside. 
            Little evidence of religious buildings or activities.  It seems many of these villagers are animists.. 
            Sanitation in many areas is a huge problem.  Piles of garbage and plastic sacks filled with garbage pile beside the narrow streets.  Bathroom facilities in most places are a disaster.  It seems that many villages rely on two or three public toilets that the  government installed some time ago.  These are scarcely maintained.... I wonder what the future holds as population increases.
            Solar hot water systems are visible on many rooftops in some villages.  They are quite inexpensive and effective. 
            Sanitation. Piles of open garbage everywhere, plastic sacks filled with garbage were piled along the narrow streets.

            I was sad to leave Yuangyang.  It will always remain as one of the magnificent journeys of my life.   And we must thank Mr. Peng, our driver  and Jacky for their support.





We're descending now...warmer ..more banana trees, yellow sunflower-like plants everywhere and will be heading further south and west oto Xishuangbanna  prefecture.








Other views of YuanYang Rice Fields






Repairing the Rice Paddies for Next Year











               Market Scenes







Dinner at Jacky's Guest House

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