Views of Rice Paddies |
11/18/11
The Exotic Rice
Terraces of YUANYANG Region
You have probably seen many views of the
photogenic area of Yuanyang...30,000 acres of rice fields in the Ailao
Mountains reaching from almost 6000 feet altitude to the base of Red River
valley. An inspiring view especially
considering that the Hani people have continued developing these terraces for
several thousands years. These terraced
hillsides are a photographer's delight, and
people travel from all parts of the world for the perfect glistening view.
China is trying to have this region registered as a World Heritage Site.
Yuanyang is divided into two areas:
Nansha, new village along the Red River and Xingie,old town near the top of the
mountains. En route we stopped for lunch
in the dominant Han town of Xingie. It
serves as the administration and commercial
hub for much of the region. I
found a small textile piece of old Akha embroidery. It is difficult to come upon these pieces
today in Yunnan.
Dozens of
small ethnic villages fan out from Xingie.
We chose to stay in Duoyishu, a Hani Minority village, for the great
sunrise on the terraces below and the only Guest House with English-speaking in
the entire region. Jacky's (opened only
a month before our arrival) was a
comfortable stay (especially with the electric blankets for the cold nights and
mornings). Jacky is Hani but has
traveled extensively in Asia with a
French photographer and studied English at Xian University . Wonderful vegetable dishes filled Jacky's
table, as well as great conversations with the other French and Belgiian
guests. Our driver, Mr. Peng was such an
addition during this journey. He put on
an apron and helped cook with Jacky and his mother, Pu. A great driver and sweet hard-working
person.
As you can imagine the roadway was like a
carnival ride with so many horseshoe curves, ascents, descents, and tunnels up
to two miles in length. Along the route
trucks
horns were blaring followed by three wheeled minivans, pigs, water buffaloes,
chickens, loads of bricks, motorcycles, busses, orange and banana stands,
market stalls, bamboo trees, loads of logs, bricks...
Here and there were dozens of small
ethnic villages (Hani, Akha,Yi, Miao) of stucco houses and thatched roofs
hanging onto pockets of level ground amidst the immense hillsides. My stomach wasn't too happy with the journey.
But the landscape made up for the discomfort.
There seemed to be a village market
somewhere most days of the week. Sunday
market day in Sheng Cun was our highlight.
Hani, Nisu Yi, and Aini ethnic people filled the main street market with
every kind of transport, produce, kitchen supplies, clothing, chickens, pigs,
conversation, and stares. The variety of
vegetables and fruits in this tropical highland region on the Tropic if Cancer
is amazing....These market moments are exhausting as I try to respectfully
document the women and their incredible dress.
We decided against a four hour round
trip to the Huangmaoling market - too exhausting!
Observations:
Schools peppered the
countryside.
Little evidence of religious
buildings or activities. It seems many
of these villagers are animists..
Sanitation in many areas is a huge
problem. Piles of garbage and plastic
sacks filled with garbage pile beside the narrow streets. Bathroom facilities in most places are a disaster. It seems that many villages rely on two or
three public toilets that the government
installed some time ago. These are
scarcely maintained.... I wonder what the future holds as population increases.
Solar hot water systems are visible
on many rooftops in some villages. They
are quite inexpensive and effective.
Sanitation. Piles of open garbage
everywhere, plastic sacks filled with garbage were piled along the narrow
streets.
I was sad to leave Yuangyang. It will always remain as one of the
magnificent journeys of my life. And we
must thank Mr. Peng, our driver and
Jacky for their support.
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