Farewell For Now

On the Mekong River in Laos

     Going home was hard, particularly when we read about sub-zero nights at home.  But, here we are back in Yakima dreaming about our wonderful journey to Laos, Thailand, and Cambodia.
     As a result of this trip I have fallen deeply in love with the Mekong River and its kind people, diverse lands and  rich cultures.  Born in the Tibetan Plateau, it flows through Southwest China ( by lovely Dali in Yunnan Province), Burma, Thailand, Laos. Cambodia, and Vietnam.

     If you have any interest in exploring these regions, go now.  You will not be disappointed.

                                            Good-bye for now my Mighty Mekong!

November 23-Talat Sao Market in Vientiane, Laos

                                                                Hmong Embroidery


Talat Sao market in Vientiene, Laos

    Everything one could imagine is available here in the largest market of Laos.  Of course my focus was to zero in on the older beautiful textile pieces of the region.  It didn't take me long to make contact with  a tiny shop that featured weavings of Sam Nauea (eastern Laos and with a reputation for great weaving).  There were some fine small pieces there and some beautiful expensive sarong size weavings.   Then, there were many shops featuring the Miao (Hmong) ethnic minority group.  I found some of their colorful embroidered folk stories with English descriptions.  The Miao seem to always be the most active and well organized ethnic group.  Not only in textiles but also in their silver and metal work.  Their exquisite textile work is what has inspired me to start these Asian explorations and I'm still awed.
     The market is relatively new and indoors with air conditioning.  We met people from all over the world there- some were former Lao who had migrated to Australia and other countries during the war.  They commentated on how much better life is in Lao now.  And, one sees many projects (cultural centers, water services in minority villages, bridges, roads, museums) developed throughout the country with the help of other nations: Germany, Australia, USA, France, China, Thailand.
     
     That night we walked to to an exceptional dining place for dinner was the French restaurant called La Silapa, which means in Lao - art. Gorgeous and delicate salads of tomatoes and eggplant, a fish plate called St Pierre La Crois which was served on a bed of Lao broccoli and wild rice.
  En route we came upon a wonderful ethnic arts shop and I found my treasure of the year -an antique silk mosquito cover strip woven in Sam Nauea in the most wonderful colors and
with such a variety of designs.  What a treasure!  
    Another day of delights.

November 25, Pakse, Laos

                                                         En route to Khong Island

     The ViP overnight Bus King journey from Vientiane south to Pakse,  in Southern Laos was both a challenge and a new adventure.
    The early morn arrival provided the opportunity for a short visit in the area.  There just happened to be a silk weaving village nearby called Ban Saphai, only 15 kilometers away.  So we found a driver and a van and were on our way.
    It was a prosperous village of attractive homes with large weaving  looms fully dressed and in full production. The 5 women weavers I talked with were doing fairly simple ikat designs of two colors with warps of synthetic yarns and their boats that carried the yarns for the weft combined purchased chinese silk and synthetic yarn.   They wove about 1 1/2 meters a day receiving about 80,000 kip or $10 for each piece and generally all their work was  contracted.  
    As we left town, we stopped at a small village market and there I found many weaving supplies which included the ikat dyed yarns for the village ikat designs.  So these women buy most of supplies prepared for them!  No more tie-dyeing the threads!     
    Back into Pakse, we visited the market and museum, then boarded the jumbo tuk tuk (light truck with side panels)  and set off in a southernly direction.  
    Three hours later we arrived at the crossing to Four Thousand Islands in the most southern part of Laos in the Mekong River.  The ferry was a veritable antique operation, but it did manage to carry us across the mighty Mekong.
    We were dropped off a block from our Pons guesthouse with a comfortable room and veranda.  The mattress was good and hard!  We settled in with a grand shower, dinner on the peaceful riverside of fish steamed in coconut milk with steamed vegetables, laolao (the local whiskey) cocktails and a game of gin with a new deck of cards.
    There are large groups of Italians and Spanish (Catalan) staying in our area.  Always fun to share stories.

November 16-Luang Nam Tha Villages

Lantan Village indigo fabric

Lantan Weavers

Nov 16-Luang Nam Tha villages

   Xia, our tour guide and owner of the Minority Village restaurant, escorted us to the villages of the Lantan, Akha, Thai Dam. Kalom (lunch), Thai Deung, Thai Dam, Hmong, and the Thai Lu.  Most of these village homes were of a wooden structure built on stilts with either a thatched or metal roof.  All the villages welcomed our visit and were  open to sharing their lives with us.  Only one village was Buddhist, the rest were animists or followed ancestor traditiions.
   
     LANTAN.   The women of the Lantan village, Ban Nam Di,  with indigo fabric pieces hanging on the clothes line, still grow their own cotton, prepare the yarns, dye if in their vats, and weave it in 14 inch widths.  We saw a loom with traditional bag fabric in process and stored above  the loom were six large bags of cotton ready to be spun.
     We saw only 5 older women in the village (the rest were harvesting rice) and all said they are active in these fiber activities .  I observed that all of them were wearing their traditional blue dresses with pink trim, blue fitted pants and white leggings.  I love their deep blue cotton and bought a roll (7 meters)  for 160,000 Kip ($20).
   Xai  mentioned that the village is well known for its bamboo paper making  activity but due to rice harvesting, we would not be able to observe these activities.   The Lantan use the paper to record religious literature in a script based on the Chinese language. They migrated from southern China and their religious belief combines animism and ancestor worship.
   


    AKHA.  The Akha are known for their spirit gates and ceremonial swings made annually to offer the village protection during the year.  The structure is of rudimentary branches, stars and other symbols which are most sacred to the Akha.  Both structures are not touched after the initial ceremony and the swing is actually cut at this time.  Another cultural tradition of the Aka is the "boy's house" which provides a  sleeping privacy for a young boy when he reaches puberty and allows him to to be alone with a young woman, if he so desires.  I'd like to know more about this tradition.
   The Akha grow rice on the hillsides using the slash and burn method and have a few pigs, chickens and dogs. They migrated here some 25 years ago and in the last 3 years have opened a school. Their main handicraft is making bracelets adorned with metal trinkets and beads which they force on every tourist.  Almost everyone in the village was on their hillside area harvesting the rice.  The family we did see seemed very poor with few resources .
    
     THAI DAM.  We then visited a Thai Dam minority whiskey making operation.  The old fashioned still used rice to produce a palatable whiskey drink.  They don't wait seven years either!  They sell it as soon as it is made. 
    The Thai Dam weaving village, nearby, was filled with women working at their rather sophisticated looms.  The are known for their complex design which combines both a supplemental warp (brocade design) and ikat (tied and dyed yarns to create a pattern before the dressing of the loom).
     The loom has additional warp options which the weaver has to constantly control as well as the ikat pattern and tension. These women grow up learning the patterns of their villages and maintain the same basic patterns with variations their entire lives.  I have seen absolutely beautiful older pieces of their weaving when they preparing all their own yarns of silk and cotton and making their own dyes.  Some still do raise silk worms and prepare the yarns, but they also combine synthetic threads with the silk,  buy commercial dyes from China, and weaver much simpler patterns.  Change is everywhere and I can't blame them for using labor saving devices. 

   KOTAM.  Lunch was prepared by two ethnic Kotam women and included: sticky rice, rattan shoots, bamboo shoots, local fish in herbs, dried beef, pickled broccoli, locally made noodles with a tomato sauce, and laolao.  An incredible lunch.

    THAI DUENG.  Thai Dueng village is another great weaving village which uses the supplemental warp weaving technical.  The materials for making silk threads from the silkworm were evident.  Their patterns don't seem to include as much ikat .  I need to find out more about the Thai Deung people and their weaving.  Most of the residents were in the rice paddies.
 
   THAI DAM.  Another Thai Dam village, Ban Pa Sac, seemed to be more engaged in all elements of the weaving world.
    We watched the silk making process from which the silk threads emerged from the boiling of the silk balls. It is amazing how the silk thread comes out of the cocoons as one single continuous strand from the many cocoons in the boiling water.  The village's primary source of income is from the rice production.  But, the women's weaving contributes significantly.
    An interesting funerary tradition of the Thai Dam is the highly decorated area where the body is laid to rest. Colorful flags and fabrics mark the area and in the past all the friends of the deceased wove special cloths to help that person in the afterlife.
   
    HMONG.  The Hmong village seemed much more affluent due to the rubber tree based economy.  Formerly the Hmong were the major poppy seed growers for the region until the Lao government. with aid from US and others, helped them replace the poppy production with rubber trees.  The trees are in full production, after waiting seven years, and bring considerable income to all the village.  I appreciated the shade and comfort of those rubber trees.

    THAI LU.  The Thai Lu were the last village of the day.   They are Theravada Buddhists and support a Wat in their own community.  The are known as successful traders and we saw many large trucks they use for transport.  There were also many family vegetable gardens.  The Thai Lu came here from Yunnan China.  

Depart Vientiane for North Laos

Journey to Luang Mam Tha.

Joma Bakery Cafe on central Chanta Street. -a tourist hangout, great coffee and yogurt.

Just now a young handicapped man walking on hands and dragging his feet came to my table and just looked up at  me.   It was hard to look at him directly.  What to do?  Fortunately, my breakfast was fruit and yogurt
so I bundled up some bite size chunks of fruit into a napkin and offered it to him.  He looked me in the eyes, lifted his dirty walking hands to show me how dirty they were.  So I slowly put the pieces of fruit in his mouth which he quickly ate, then thanked me. My heart broke thinking about the way he had to live.

We are on the Lao Airline to Luang Nam Tha pop. 35,000, next to China-Burma border for 5 days.  Two features of this province: Nam Ha National Protected Area ( 2224-sq-km area) densely forested regions (96%primary forest cover) in Laos and many ethnic villages which include Hmong, Akha, Mien, Santao, Thai Daeng, Thai Lu, Thai Nuea,  Thai Kalom, Khamu, Lamet, Lao Loum, Shan and Yunnanese.

The plane trip was highlighted with the conversations with to vibrant Madrid residents - Francisco is a photographer for a Newspaper and covers the world hot spots, Alexandra works in the photography collection department.

Just checked into our guest house, Thoulasith-$15 no air con or breakfast.  Beautiful village with palm trees, rice paddies, wooden houses on stilts and a very quiet commercial center.  There are many restaurants with extensive western and local restaurants.  We are eating next door to our guest house at the Minority Restaurant -bamboo shoots soup and sweet and sour chicken with vegetables and rice.

Guest houses are everywhere to accommodate the young active travelers who will kayak, trek and explore in this paradise.

We're making plans for a days journey tomorrow to visit some of the ethic villages close by.  What will we see?  The night market with weaving here turned out to be a huge disappointment.  Too bad

A bicycle ride around town and then some yogurt smoothies followed by an herbal sauna in one of those wooden houses on stilts with bamboo flooring.  We declined the massage because there were several others waiting for their turn.  Quite an experience.  Very few people here speak English.

We met a German man who had biked in from Tajikistan.  He said his favorite part of the trip was in Tibet due to the uniqueness of the people and their kindness .

Enough for today.  Sleep dear sleep.


Hotel in Muang Sing. Phot Ii Bungalow 020 55686909-086-400012

Vientiene, November 14, 2010

                                                                    Vientiane, Laos

Sitting at a sidewalk cafe, Croissant d'or, on Rue nokeoummane s a prelude for our day of exploring Vientiene on bicycle. The days are in the 80's, dry and perfect. Traffic is most mild with loads of motorcycles, Tuk tuks, motorized or leg propelled carts, or SUV's - not much in between.
I have seen just a few traffic lights so far here. I'm sure there are more, but many intersections are up to the drivers. People just seem to go with the flow.

Our guesthouse is wedged between two large wards or monasteries. Every day we walk through one of them to visit neighboring streets. The grounds are very simple, not manicured but with 3 or 4 large mature trees. Once in awhile we see some of the monks about. The murals inside look beautiful as we pass by. We'll see. Off for now.

Bicycle tour included a ride along the Mekong River road, and then along the flower lined boulevard to the Patuxai monument. En route we passed the huge Talat Sao market complex. The monument, built in 1960 with road building funds(it's called a vertical road project), looks like the Arc de Triumphant from a distance. As you get closer, stone sculpture work looks very similar to the work on Ankor Wat.

Vientiane, November 15, 2010

                                                           Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan

My first cup of American style coffee in Laos. Wonderful here in the little French cafe across from the Mixay Wat. A very creative place with photos of weaving process and Laos cultural scenes in innovative scenes.

Today is Wat day and for me a return to the Talat Sao market. I am getting to know this place a little. Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan is one of the most important in Laos. Originally built in 16th C by King Setthathirat and is said to be built on site used for religious purpose as car back as 3rd C. Destroyed and rebuilt in 20th C. Now monks come from all o er Laos to study Buddha's teachings. Famous for wooden facade near the 5.8 meter bronze Buddha, a masterpiece of Lao carving. Spoke with a monk who explained the 450 year celebration of the founding of Vientiane.

Next we visited the Mixay temple, simpler in syle and condition. Had another conversation with a 20 year old Monk from the south of Laos. He appreciates the opportunity to get an education in the Wat.

Tomorrow we leave for the north of Laos , Luang Nam Tha, a small village with many ethnic groups living near including Hmong, Akha, Mien, Samtao, Thai Daeng,Thai Lu, ThaiNuea, Thai L
Khao, Thai Kal, Khamu, Lamet, Lao Loum, Shan and Yunnanese.

Lunch of apple and carrot salad, fish curry was at Cinnamon restaurant. Owned by a Sri Lanka and Danish couple.

On to Vientiane Laos

Checked out of Mut Mee Guesthouse at 11:00am, paid our bill of 5,000baht or $170 for room and the majority of our meals during these four days. Good value!

Took tuk tuk to friendship bridge, passed Thai customs, caught bus for bridge crossing, got Lao visa($35), passed Lao immigration, taxied into Vieniane to Souphaphone Guesthouse. Entering town one notices a distinct difference of development level. So many shacks, dirt road surfaces, even a cow along this main roadway.
Vientiane Population is about 250,000

Spent rest of da exploring neighborhood. Fabulous restaurants everywhere -many French. Of course, we're in French Indochina.

Vientiene, Laos

Eating breakfast at our Souphaphone Guesthouse. Fried egg sunny side up, two hot dogs, two pieces of white bread toasted, kool-aid orange juice, nescafe, banana, and dragon fruit. I went out earlier to the French cafe for a croissant. No more guest house breakfast here. But the place is excellent in every other respect and brand new.

Jim has had a cold so we have been resting and reading. Today we plan to go to the Talat Sao central market. I find it difficult to learn about the styles of the different ethnic groups.

At last I have found my source of older tribal pieces - in the nooks and crannies of the huge Talat Sao market complex. Today I spent most of my time with a woman from the San Neua Eastern region, right by the Vietnam border. Here are located at least eight different ethnic groups. I found some beautiful small weavings in golden browns and indigo for 150,000 Kip (3 for $18). I was seeing the same ones in shops around here for $10-40 each.in addition this woman named phengphath Boupha can share information. I am thrilled.

We continue to find fabulous food here- French, Lao, Thai, Vietnamese. Incredible papaya salads, spicy soups, great fish, crepes...

Nong Khai to Vientiane, Laos

It's hard to leave Nong Khai, pop 60,000, a sleepy village until the building of the Friendship Bridge in the 90's. Now there is much economic activity with trade via the bridge.
Vientiane's pop is more than 200,000 and is the capital of Laos.
The differences in development are radical . What will we find on the other side?
A $35 visa charge person will get us in and then we can begin exploring. I'm afraid that I will fall in love w the tribal areas and never want to leave.
The weather is divine day and night- 70's and 80's. No rain, humidity reasonable and overcast days off and on.
See you in Vientiane.

Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park near Nong Khai

                                                                  Buddha with the Naga!
Strange is to say the least.  This park filled with strange sculptures of the Buddha, Hindu Gods, and contemporary symbols, is one mans dream to express himself and try to reach his Master. 
     Luang Pu, a Lao national, fell into a hole as a child and there he met Kaewkoo, an ascetic who introduced Luang to many elements of the underworld which set him on his course to become a Brahmanic yogi-priest-shaman.  With his own unique blend of Hindu and Buddhist philosophy, mythology and iconography, Luang developed a large following in Northeastern Thailand, which was his adopted home after the 1975 communist takeover in Laos, where he had been working on a similar project. 
     The park is a collection of bizarre cement statiesw of Shiva, Vishnu, Buddha and every other Hindu and Buddhist deity imaginable as well as lots of secular figures.  The most bizarre sculpture is a 25 meter coiled naga with Buddha sitting at the base of a multiheaded hood.
     My favorite setting was a depiction of the Wheel of Life.  One enters through a giant mouth and follow the wheel which depicts the many stages and options of one throughout life. 
     Unfortunately, Luang was imprisoned by the King because of a negative remark he had made and was imprisoned , and then passed away a year after his confinement.
     The experience was wonderful, quiet, serene and ended with a water drink by a small pond filled with huge hungry catfish.