Showing posts with label Colima. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Colima. Show all posts

Friday, February 3, 2012

More Vignettes of Colima

Vignettes of Colima    



        The sounds of Colima fill my spirits. A jazzy saxophone fills the morning air with favorites from the fifties and sixties. He sits on a bench in a walk way of tourist shops, perhaps waiting for some appreciation and money. I have only seen the musician once crossing the street with the instrument in a case. He's a short wiry black man with a very defined gait. Then there are the sounds throughout the day of ambulante guitars singing traditional Mexican rancheros and love songs, a xylophone player contributing his notes, trios of mariachi singers meandering through the restaurants, and canned Mexican singing in the restaurants, taxis, and along the streets. It all contributes to a warm inviting atmosphere. 


     As I sit here writing loud sounds of mariachis, firecrackers are filling the air. Stepping to the patio I look from our balcony onto the street below and see a parade of bands, religious themed floats with the village Virgin dominating the event. 


      Speaking of life along the streets...a trotamundo named Tomas (88 years old) is traveling to all the capitals of the Mexican states carrying his sign "Pick up the garbage and keep your community clean". One afternoon we talked with him in the Plaza as he was resting from his walk around town and he proudly showed us the many newspaper articles from all over the country describing his mission. The entire project is financed from his small business in Puebla. But, he happily accepted our small donation! Unfortunately, this week he fell and broke his four front teeth which requires him to return briefly to Puebla to get a bridge. 


      A journey to neighboring Nogueras introduced us to Alexander Rangel Hidalgo (1923-2000), a world class painter, illustrator, furniture designer, and collector of pre-Hispanic artifacts, especially the Xoloitzcuintle dogs. He uses great detail in his gaouche paintings of children, villages, highly decorated altars. The museum was located on the ex-Hacienda Nogueras (a former sugar mill) which he purchased for his life and work.


     Alexander Rangel's collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts dating from 1500 BC-1200 AD.












My Favorite




      Upon returning to our hotel we realized that all the paintings on the upper level are all from his collection.

      We also appreciate the photos and drawings shown below of Zamarripa, dancer, artist, sculptor, and teacher. These we found in the hallway outside our hotel room.  Zamarripa helped organize the Colima Folklore group at the University of Colima, as both a dancer and choreographer.








      I am sad to leave Hotel Ceballos, this lovely building of the Neo Gothic facade, sturdy columns of volcanic stones, beautiful plants and the expansive elegant hallways and statuesque interior patios. It has stood proudly here since the 19th century sharing their area with the traditional "Plaza de Armas", now called "Jardin Libertad" (Freedom Garden in the center of which is a bandstand. It was built as the home of a general in 1860 but was sold in 1920 to Don Enrique Ceballos, a successful businessman who later made it into a hotel for travelers.

Thursday, February 2, 2012

Colima Museum of Regional History

                     Colima Museum of Regional History 






      Another exceptional small museum in Colima is located on the north side of the central plaza. It tells the story of Colima's development from around 1500 BC to the present. Each major historical period is located in a separate room with clear explanations in both Spanish and English. 


      The early pre-hispanic period called Chanal, dating from 1500 BC to about 1200 AD and recently documented, is one of the most fascinating exhibits. Included are the graceful ceramic vessels, tools, weapons, musical instruments and human figures. There are also many miniature detailed clay scenes illustrating the daily life of its resident. These artifacts were all found in the many tomb shafts found and studied in the last 50 years. There is also a large model of a tomb shaft with the artifacts of burials. 





Figures Shows Growth on Chest


A Chief?

Smaller Delicate Scenes

Note Triangular Head Shape

A Sensitive Woman


     A major element of this culture was the adoration of a special dogs called Xoloitzcuintles. Although not confined to this area of Mexico, but so many of these shiny red-clay figures have been uncovered by archaeologistss in Colima, that they've become known as Colima dogs. Most of these figures are just standing on their four thick legs but sometimes they're dancing jooyfully with each other or sitting on their haunches smiling quizzically.




Xoloitzcuintles- Sacred Dogs




      The Aztecs believed that Xoloitzcuintles helped human souls each their final resting place in the afterworld, which explains why the statues(and the dogs themselves) have been found in tombs. The dogs were believed to possess mystical curative powers and people often slept with them, hoping to be relieved of their ailments. This may be why they were also part of the ancient diet, a fact that would explain their charming rotundity. These dogs are still prized by collectors and the purebred Mexican Hairless, (Frida Kahlo kept them). It is one of the oldest and rarest domesticated breeds in the world.

University Museum of Popular Art

                       El Museo Universitario de Artes Populares 


Beaded Huipil from Colima State




      What an inspiration to visit this charming museum which is part of the University of Colima, just five blocks from the central plaza. On display are folk-art exhibits from Colima and other nearby states. The collection of costumes and masks used in traditional Colima dances is exceptional with each item carefully detailed in Spanish explaining its cultural background, materials, and source.




Colima Dancer





Regional Dances


    


      The textile collection was rich in diversity and description. The weaving, embroidery, and dyeing technics were explained wonderful detail. Huipils (blouses), belts, blankets, skirts, purses were included. with Colima and Oaxaca examples dominating the collection. There were even lovely examples of ikat and shibori (tie-dye) (plangi). Most of the weaving was done on the basic back-strap loom. Hard to believe! Basketry, painted gourds, instruments, miniature toy models, doll houses, and puppet theaters were exhibited as well. The visit reminded me of the Santa Fe Museum of Folk Art but on a much smaller scale. An incredible experience in lovely Colima.

Wednesday, February 1, 2012

Colima, Mexico 2

             Colima, Mexico 2






     Colima, Mexico Hotel Ceballos. Central Plaza The 7:00 am ringing of the Cathedral bells outside the windows of our room carries me back to so many places and times: to Cairo and the muezzin calling all to prayer five times a day, to Vientienne Laos and the soft sound of Buddhist Temple drums announcing a ceremony, and to the chimming of the Presbyterian church bells near our home in Yakima, Washington. Each call so unique but beautiful in its unique way. 




      Yesterday's lunch of pork mole at "Ay Que Nanishe" (How delicious in Mixtec language of Oaxaca) was delicious. Following that meal we went to the upstairs deck for reading and a swim.






       Am catching up on my New Yorker magazines from the last trip. Dinner was a rice soup with egg and a vegetable soup at "Los Naranjos". Very ordinary setting and little warmth generated from the staff. There is much political activity in the plaza in front of the governor's office. There is an employment law that the vocal group of the day are hoping to make into law. Speech making, chants, supporters standing in the plaza. Can't quite make out what the issues are. 


Political Activity in the Plaza





      The nights are absolutely beautiful no sweater needed temp with no worry about insects, robbers, spiders, strange smells, It's wonderful to stroll in the well-lite plaza and surrounding streets.


     More sights of Colima.......


Home of Alexander Rangel, the Artist

Parade Honoring Colima's Virgen
Fruit Seller

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Colima, Colima, Mexico 1



Colima, Mexico


      Church bells from all around us are ringing with their metalic sounds. The cathedral which has the loudest ring of all has been built several times due to earthquake damage. Its origin dates back to Spanish construction in 1527.  The Central Plaza sits so stately and solidly in the heart of all with its beautiful white painted seating surrounded by palms, orange trees, yellow cannas, and people enjoying the quiet beauty of the surroundings. I have fallen in love with charming Colima located an hour inland from the Pacific Coast between the states of Jalisco and Michoacan. Colima is the name of the smallest state of Mexico as well as the name of its capitol city. Everywhere we go, someone greets us which make us feel at home.




Colima Cathedral


      Our base here is Hotel Ceballo, an absolutely beautiful colonial structure on the north side of the Plaza.  If you want to stay in a grand hotel with elegant Mexican architecture and furnishings, come to Colima and the Hotel Cabellos. The reception is so helpful and kind, the marble floors, granite spacious stairways, halls with open arched patios, and large plants in beautiful regional pottery.   The walls are covered with paintings by Mexican artists, 
vases adorning the broad hallways represent the pottery style of various Mexican regions, and the leather and wood furniture is exquisitely made and does provide comfort. Roof top views of this colonial town are lovely and the small swim pool and quiet areas are a retreat for reading and relaxing. ast day there. 






Hotel Ceballos



Founder of Hotel, Don Enrique Ceballos


      If you want to stay in a grand hotel with elegant Mexican architecture and furnishings, come to Colima and the Hotel Cabellos. The reception is so helpful and kind, the marble floors, granite spacious stairways, halls with open arched patios, large plants in beautiful regional pottery, and walls covered with paintings by Mexican artists. 




Hallways of Hotel Ceballo










Mexican Dancer, Choreographer, Artist



Raphael Zamarripa


     I loved our dinner setting on the sidewalk in front of our hotel watching life go by in the central square. Temperature was perfect, the margaritas refreshing, and the milanesa with vegetables was satisfying. 


     The visit to the Palacio de Gobierno brought back memories of the government buildings in Mexico City and Morelia. The magnificent murals of Jorge Chavez Carrillo showing the struggle of the Mexican people to free themselves from the Spanish overlord are magnificent along the stairway. There Hidalgo, the priest from Colima, Morelos, the Mexican fighter, the natives of Mexico, and the Spanish overlords struggling to dominate this land. The power expressed in the paintings is impressive


Palace of the Governor
Father Hidalgo, Father of Independence






     Also, housed in this building is a collection of pottery from the earliest civilizations of the region. From about 1500 BC to 1500 AD these people created a remarkable civilization that has left us graceful pottery, jewelry, and many figures of their mystial dogs, called Xoloitzcuintles.

      What a treat to visit this city of about 130,000 in the dry season. When the rains start for three to four months in July, I'm sure it is another experience.




















Saturday, January 28, 2012

Adios, Bucerias, Mexico

Adios Bucerias




      It is hard to say good-bye to the wonderful stay at Casa Bella Maria, our B&B in Bucerias. Nadine and Kasey Valkenburg are fabulous hosts and think of every detail to make their guests comfortable and feel at home. They met us at the airport, welcomed us to their home with with a refreshing Margarita and nachos, provided a banquet of a breakfast, left a bottle of wine with wine glasses in our bedroom, and provided us with local transportation when necessary. There were always snack items and fruits available during our stay. Our room was most comfortable and was furnished with much storage and hooks to hand beach towels and other items.


Our Neighborhood in Bucerias
   
   Most fun was the birthday party for one of the guests on our last day there. Sharon's husband had asked Nadine and Kasey to prepare her favorite breakfast of blueberry pancakes in the morning. Then all of us visited a neighboring port of La Cruz de Huanacaztle for their Sunday market. When we returned our hosts had a wonderful birthday dinner of grilled shrimp, pilaf, caesar salad, strawberries with chocolate. I don't think that I have ever been treated with such consideration and care in any other B&B. Nadine and Kasey really go out of their way for their guests. And, what a fabulous day we all had. I was sad to say good-bye to them when they left us at the bus station in Puerto Vallarta for our next destination. We will always remember our stay and return some day. FYI -Casa Bella Maria in Bucerias on 13 Constituyentes casabellamariamexico@yahoo.ca See you soon in Colima.


B&B




Another Beach View






Casa Manana 
Nadine and Kasey