4. Burma: Yangon, Capital of Burma (Myanmar)

Arrival in Yangon   

Shwedagon Paya/Pagoda in Yangon
Covered in Gold Leaf

Find Yangon in SW Myanmar

     After  a 42 hour door to door flight (Yakima, Washington to Yangon, Burma), we land in the former capital city and commercial center, Yangon.

First impressions: 100% humidity, 90's, torrential storm, no evidence of armed military yet, and people everywhere.

 There are over six million people living in Yangon (census has not been taken for 39 years, due for a new one soon).  In spite of the congested streets, limited designated walk ways, and the heat,  most people are extremely helpful and kind.  We particularly appreciated the wonderful support at our guest house, Motherland Inn II.

City Views

Outside the Pagoda Entry

Flowers for the Buddha in Shwedagon Pagoda

Sweet Pilgrims Leaving Pagoda

Burmese Nuns Visiting Pagoda

Children inside the Shwedagon Pagoda

Normal Traffic in Yangon

Along a Main Street in Yangon Near our Guest House

Activities:

     Bogyoke Aung Sang market in city center-- inside the maze of shops found is Yoyama textile shop which has a quality selection of several ethnic groups (Chin, Naga, and Akha).  Store owner is extremely helpful and loves to share her fabric knowledge of Burma.  

Wa Ethnic Group - Necklace

Akha Ethnic Group Embroidery

Kachin Ethnic Group Fashion

 Activities

     National Museum, treasure house of historic royal gold items, gemstones, and Bagan prehistory.  The top floor with a superior display of 70 fully dressed ethnic costumes (male and female) and village artifacts (looms, etc) was the most fascinating.


     Shwedagon Paya  (Pagoda) -  this huge stupa glitters bright gold leaf and jewels from every corner of city, 2500 years old, rebuilt many times. It is the most sacred of all Burma's Buddhists' sites. Burmese follow the Theravada tradition of Buddhism.

     After taking off shoes and socks at one of the four entries, you begin climbing the stairs, which are lined with a series of shops where devotees and visitors buy flowers, ceremonial paper umbrellas, books, incense sticks, and even antiques for the pagoda visit.

     As you emerge from the covered entry you see that Shwedagon is more than just one huge gold and jewel-covered stupa.  All around it is a technicolor glitter of smaller stupas, temples, shrines, images, and small pavilions.  

     The devotees walk clockwise in a meditative mode around the main stupa on a mat pathway (so their feet don't burn from the marble surface).  We noted that many people stopped to worship at specific shrines along the walk.   These spots were planetary posts representing the days of the week. Here you can offer prayers and care for your own day of birth shrine.

     Shwedagon has a long fascinating history.  One episode that I appreciate describes a strong Queen Shinsawbu of 1400's who made significant developments and improvements to the pagoda by giving her weight in gold (88 lbs), thus beginning the tradition of gold leaf donations.

    In  2007 it was the center for monks protesting military government.

    In 1988, Aung San Suu Kyi spoke here.

Shwedegon Paya Maintenance

Traditional Walk Around Paya

Caring For Your Day of Birth Sculpture

Lovely Pilgrims

 Nuns Eating and Resting at Pagoda

Buddha Dressed in Burmese Folded Kyats (Money)

Close up of Burmese Bills 1 Kayat
Value is $1

Buddha Wearing Crown of Burmese Kayats

Close up of Money Donated to the Pagoda

Other activities and observations:

     Botataung Paya, another of dozens of pagodas,  is a sharp contrast  to the massive Shwedagon.   It is located in a sketchy neighborhood and exhibits significant deferred maintenance showing less financial support.

    The  lovely Strand Hotel (colonial British built) is perfect for a cup of tea and quiet.  Staying there would be delightful, but $600 a night might  close the bank.

     There are many choices for delicious food in Yangon,  Two of our favorite restaurants were Meet Mayanmar (near the National Museum) and the wharf side Junior Duck.  Menus always include many varieties of seafood preparations, vegetable stir fry in all kinds of hot and sour sauces, delicious hot and spicy fish, hardy noodle soups, and fresh delicious tropical fruits: papaya, banana, pineapple, melons....

    As we walked around the city, I was on the lookout for colorful ethnic tribal traditional dress.  Many people, especially the younger set, were wearing western pants and shirts. Older women and men were often wearing the traditional Burmese longyi or sarong.  Alas! no village outfits at all!

     Visiting the hundreds of isolated ethnic villages throughout the country would be the way to view the colorful, hand-woven and embroidered textiles of these unique people....So on to Kengtung of the Golden Triangle to find and visit the Akha, Aeng, Lahu, Lishu, Padaung, Palaung.......

Let's Go to Kengtung!