GUATEMALA ZIGZAG COAT
A designing process
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| My Guatemalan Weaving Inspiration |
A new adventure has begun. And, I am going crazy launching my endeavor called The Zig Zag Coat.....in fact I get dizzy just trying to get started. The inspirational fabric is from a beautiful back-strap weaving from the Mayan village of San Antonio Aguascalientes. It is located in the highlands of Guatemala, an hour from the lovely colonial town of Antigua. The torn and worn huipil (blouse) pieces ( 20 inches in length and 14 inches wide) incorporate a multitude of brilliant colors and a variety of designs.
Notice the strong zigzag section pictured below. It is definitely my favorite strip of the more than seven different designs elements incorporated into this lovely huipil. I would so like to know about the woman who spent those many hours and days creating such a piece of beauty. The weaving is so tight that her shoulders must have gotten tired pounding the yarn so tightly with the heddle. I hope she felt great joy from her work.
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| A Front Piece of a Guatemalan Huipil (blouse) |
Out with the drawing pad in order to sketch the possibilities of manipulating the vibrant colorful fabric into a wearable garment. Using ethnic textile remnants is often a challenge due to the irregularity of patterns and shapes of the handwork, thickness of some pieces, and my desire to maintain the integrity of the artists work.
I have decided that a very basic coat would provide the best backdrop to show off the striking elements of the woven piece. Lois Ericson's pattern The Wedge will form the basic structure for my garment because of its very classic lines which allow great manipulation of fabric.
The paper pattern pieces are cut. Now I begin drawing and cutting smaller paper design segments for the two front pieces of the coat. Suddenly I realize that my ingenious paper plan does not translate well with the reality of the fabric. What do I do now?
At this point I decide to search through all my boxes of ethnic fabrics and embellishments and dream of designs that could create the look I'm seeking. Do I know what I am seeking? Yes, a dramatic way to show off the rich zigzag pattern and then add subtle support embellishments. I have decided to focus on the variety of designs within the huipil weaving as the major motif instead of using San Blas Island molas, Pakistani mirror work, Chinese embroidery etc.....that you can see below.
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| Part of The Stash. |
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| Possible Embellishment Items. |
Black is definitely the background color. I want to combine a variety of black fabrics to create a textured background look for the featured zigzag strips. Now we are launched. The dramatic zigzag woven strips for the front pieces are in place as are the accompanying black textured fabrics and one orange. Embellishing the strips of design with orange theme color threads brings life to the design.
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| The Best Background Choice. |
I have just come upon myAfghan beaded circles that will provide a touch more of drama for the front. Imagine that I have found these wonderful beaded circles in the markets of Pakistan, Jordan, and in the Chatachack Market of Bangkok. Formerly, they were all part of wonderful full-skirted Afghan dresses.
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| Afghani Beaded Circle |
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| Afghan Beaded Circles. They Might Be Perfect |
Adding some curved lines which connect with the linear look adds a touch of warmth and rhythm. I'm beginning to like what I see. But, of course, get a pocket on the coat....for credit cards and mad money. So the fronts are almost done......
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| The Fronts are Taking Shape. |
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| Another View. |
The back piece will feature a diamond shaped section of 6 strips of the huipil enclosed with a bias border strip. Two Japanese Kumihimo ties will hang from the bottom corner of section. The rest of the back piece will be formed by more strips of black fabrics stitched together in three different sections.
The key to the beauty of the back lines is the strength and continuity of the angled lines. After aligning the three back sections with the embellished cording, it will be such fun finishing and applying the Guatemalan huipil piece to the center back creating a diamond design. The last design element will be the addition of the Japanese kumuhino fiber design strips to the bottom of the diamond.
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| The Back Takes Shape. |
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| Backside of the Woven Huipil. So Tightly Woven. |
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| From Back Embellishment to a Handbag! |
The back is now the greatest change. The entire inspiration for the coat was to show off the wonderful woven huipil piece seen above. It just didn't fit on the back piece --- it was too big and heavy. The photos below show the changes made to the back.
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| Redesigned Back |
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| Detail of Back |
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| Front Views |
The sleeves are as I originally envisioned them....and add strength to the entire piece.
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| Sleeves Join the Coat |
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| Preparing the Sleeves |
The brilliant lining works well with the fabrics and provides good sized pockets.
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| Lining |
Two small strips of the beautiful woven fabric remain.....how to use them? A hat it will be. Since I like the fit and feel of the Akha ethnic group of Southeast Asia hat style, that is what I will try to create. Materials used to construct hat include: Guatemala huipil woven strips, Turkish beads with bobbles, Yemeni silver pieces, Thai yarn bobbles for the crown, stash black fabrics, and my design process What fun to make!
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| Akha Style Hat |
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| Another View |
The embellishment shown below from Sinai has been added to the coat side openings.
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| Sinai Tassels for Coat |
Today, July19, 2011 the Guatamala Zig Zag coat is complete except for the label!
I feel a slight let-down having finished this project. All that is left of the wonderful San Antonio Aguas Caliente weaving is shown here. And all of these pieces are torn and ragged.
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| Remaining Fragments of Guatemalan Huipil |
This garment kept my mind so active that I feel slightly empty.....oh well, there's always another creation awaiting.
Hope you enjoyed the Zig Zag experience.... I hope the wonderful weaver from San Antonio Aguas Caliente would be proud to see her weaving in the coat..
Looking forward to our next encounter.
For more information on Guatemalan weaving see some of the following selections:
Guatemalan Backstrap Weaving
Chichicastenango;: A Guatemalan village
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