Angkor Thom Complex , a City State which includes
Bayon, Terrace of Leper King. Terrace of Elephants, Baphuon
In order to get great photos at sunrise, beat the heat and the crowds, we started our day at 5:00 am which turned out to be the best way to visit this magical place.
A kilometer beyond the Angkor Wat temple we pass along the Avenue of Victory, which features on each side of the road a series of 54 massive stone faces, on one side the demons and the other the gods riding astride a long naga (a multi-headed serpent with many mythological connections-fertility, creation, rainbows) After which is an elegant archway (one of five) which opens to a huge multi-towered complex that is covered with embellishment. We have entered the fortified city of Angkor's greatest king, Jayaravman VII (1181-1201), who came to power just after the sacking by the Cham (from Vietnam area) of the previous Khmer capital. The population of this city state could have numbered a million at one time and occupies 10 sq km closed by a wall 8m high and 12km in length encircled by a moat 100m wide and said to have been occupied by fierce crocodiles.
The Bayon
Archaeologists are unsure of its purpose and symbolism.
It's a place of superlative-54 gothic towers decorated with 200 coldly smiing, gargantuan faces of the bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara.
The site is filled with extremely steep stairways and narrow corridors. The glory is it's decorations-1200m of exquisite bas-reliefs in sandstone ( collected 50km from site and floated down river) incorporating over 11,000 figures. We were most awed by the vivid descriptions of everyday life of 12th century Cambodia. There were the activities of fishing, farming, music, families together, childbirth. Of course a major part of the murals dealt with the military exploits and conquests.
An impressive aspect of much of the sculpture in Angkor was an evidence of human warmth and expression that emerged from within the stylization. I was totally enchanted and inspired to see such beauty displayed, particularly in stone.
Terrace of Elephants
Served as a review platform for King and was identified by its extensive wall of carved elephants.
Terrace of Leper King
Inside this structure, whose name's significance is a mystery, lies a corridor only recently uncovered where the bas relief are almost in their original condition. I was thrilled beyond words to view wall upon wall of beautiful apsaras (celestial dancers who entertain the gods), kings, nagas, and other figures in such perfect condition that date from the 12th century.
The Baphuon
This structure, a pyramidal representation of the Hindu mythical holy mountain, Mt.Meru, was constructed begun by Udayadityavarman II (1049-1065) and marked the center of the city before the construction of Angkor Thom. It is in poor shape and in the process of being restored by a French team. On one side of the structure is a reclining Buddha 40m in length which was added in the 15th century.
The temples of Angkor were definitely the highlight of our incredible journey. But, it seems that everyday was remarkable and amazing. How fortunate to be able to explore our world.
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