Depart Vientiane for North Laos

Journey to Luang Mam Tha.

Joma Bakery Cafe on central Chanta Street. -a tourist hangout, great coffee and yogurt.

Just now a young handicapped man walking on hands and dragging his feet came to my table and just looked up at  me.   It was hard to look at him directly.  What to do?  Fortunately, my breakfast was fruit and yogurt
so I bundled up some bite size chunks of fruit into a napkin and offered it to him.  He looked me in the eyes, lifted his dirty walking hands to show me how dirty they were.  So I slowly put the pieces of fruit in his mouth which he quickly ate, then thanked me. My heart broke thinking about the way he had to live.

We are on the Lao Airline to Luang Nam Tha pop. 35,000, next to China-Burma border for 5 days.  Two features of this province: Nam Ha National Protected Area ( 2224-sq-km area) densely forested regions (96%primary forest cover) in Laos and many ethnic villages which include Hmong, Akha, Mien, Santao, Thai Daeng, Thai Lu, Thai Nuea,  Thai Kalom, Khamu, Lamet, Lao Loum, Shan and Yunnanese.

The plane trip was highlighted with the conversations with to vibrant Madrid residents - Francisco is a photographer for a Newspaper and covers the world hot spots, Alexandra works in the photography collection department.

Just checked into our guest house, Thoulasith-$15 no air con or breakfast.  Beautiful village with palm trees, rice paddies, wooden houses on stilts and a very quiet commercial center.  There are many restaurants with extensive western and local restaurants.  We are eating next door to our guest house at the Minority Restaurant -bamboo shoots soup and sweet and sour chicken with vegetables and rice.

Guest houses are everywhere to accommodate the young active travelers who will kayak, trek and explore in this paradise.

We're making plans for a days journey tomorrow to visit some of the ethic villages close by.  What will we see?  The night market with weaving here turned out to be a huge disappointment.  Too bad

A bicycle ride around town and then some yogurt smoothies followed by an herbal sauna in one of those wooden houses on stilts with bamboo flooring.  We declined the massage because there were several others waiting for their turn.  Quite an experience.  Very few people here speak English.

We met a German man who had biked in from Tajikistan.  He said his favorite part of the trip was in Tibet due to the uniqueness of the people and their kindness .

Enough for today.  Sleep dear sleep.


Hotel in Muang Sing. Phot Ii Bungalow 020 55686909-086-400012

Vientiene, November 14, 2010

                                                                    Vientiane, Laos

Sitting at a sidewalk cafe, Croissant d'or, on Rue nokeoummane s a prelude for our day of exploring Vientiene on bicycle. The days are in the 80's, dry and perfect. Traffic is most mild with loads of motorcycles, Tuk tuks, motorized or leg propelled carts, or SUV's - not much in between.
I have seen just a few traffic lights so far here. I'm sure there are more, but many intersections are up to the drivers. People just seem to go with the flow.

Our guesthouse is wedged between two large wards or monasteries. Every day we walk through one of them to visit neighboring streets. The grounds are very simple, not manicured but with 3 or 4 large mature trees. Once in awhile we see some of the monks about. The murals inside look beautiful as we pass by. We'll see. Off for now.

Bicycle tour included a ride along the Mekong River road, and then along the flower lined boulevard to the Patuxai monument. En route we passed the huge Talat Sao market complex. The monument, built in 1960 with road building funds(it's called a vertical road project), looks like the Arc de Triumphant from a distance. As you get closer, stone sculpture work looks very similar to the work on Ankor Wat.

Vientiane, November 15, 2010

                                                           Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan

My first cup of American style coffee in Laos. Wonderful here in the little French cafe across from the Mixay Wat. A very creative place with photos of weaving process and Laos cultural scenes in innovative scenes.

Today is Wat day and for me a return to the Talat Sao market. I am getting to know this place a little. Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan is one of the most important in Laos. Originally built in 16th C by King Setthathirat and is said to be built on site used for religious purpose as car back as 3rd C. Destroyed and rebuilt in 20th C. Now monks come from all o er Laos to study Buddha's teachings. Famous for wooden facade near the 5.8 meter bronze Buddha, a masterpiece of Lao carving. Spoke with a monk who explained the 450 year celebration of the founding of Vientiane.

Next we visited the Mixay temple, simpler in syle and condition. Had another conversation with a 20 year old Monk from the south of Laos. He appreciates the opportunity to get an education in the Wat.

Tomorrow we leave for the north of Laos , Luang Nam Tha, a small village with many ethnic groups living near including Hmong, Akha, Mien, Samtao, Thai Daeng,Thai Lu, ThaiNuea, Thai L
Khao, Thai Kal, Khamu, Lamet, Lao Loum, Shan and Yunnanese.

Lunch of apple and carrot salad, fish curry was at Cinnamon restaurant. Owned by a Sri Lanka and Danish couple.

On to Vientiane Laos

Checked out of Mut Mee Guesthouse at 11:00am, paid our bill of 5,000baht or $170 for room and the majority of our meals during these four days. Good value!

Took tuk tuk to friendship bridge, passed Thai customs, caught bus for bridge crossing, got Lao visa($35), passed Lao immigration, taxied into Vieniane to Souphaphone Guesthouse. Entering town one notices a distinct difference of development level. So many shacks, dirt road surfaces, even a cow along this main roadway.
Vientiane Population is about 250,000

Spent rest of da exploring neighborhood. Fabulous restaurants everywhere -many French. Of course, we're in French Indochina.

Vientiene, Laos

Eating breakfast at our Souphaphone Guesthouse. Fried egg sunny side up, two hot dogs, two pieces of white bread toasted, kool-aid orange juice, nescafe, banana, and dragon fruit. I went out earlier to the French cafe for a croissant. No more guest house breakfast here. But the place is excellent in every other respect and brand new.

Jim has had a cold so we have been resting and reading. Today we plan to go to the Talat Sao central market. I find it difficult to learn about the styles of the different ethnic groups.

At last I have found my source of older tribal pieces - in the nooks and crannies of the huge Talat Sao market complex. Today I spent most of my time with a woman from the San Neua Eastern region, right by the Vietnam border. Here are located at least eight different ethnic groups. I found some beautiful small weavings in golden browns and indigo for 150,000 Kip (3 for $18). I was seeing the same ones in shops around here for $10-40 each.in addition this woman named phengphath Boupha can share information. I am thrilled.

We continue to find fabulous food here- French, Lao, Thai, Vietnamese. Incredible papaya salads, spicy soups, great fish, crepes...

Nong Khai to Vientiane, Laos

It's hard to leave Nong Khai, pop 60,000, a sleepy village until the building of the Friendship Bridge in the 90's. Now there is much economic activity with trade via the bridge.
Vientiane's pop is more than 200,000 and is the capital of Laos.
The differences in development are radical . What will we find on the other side?
A $35 visa charge person will get us in and then we can begin exploring. I'm afraid that I will fall in love w the tribal areas and never want to leave.
The weather is divine day and night- 70's and 80's. No rain, humidity reasonable and overcast days off and on.
See you in Vientiane.

Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park near Nong Khai

                                                                  Buddha with the Naga!
Strange is to say the least.  This park filled with strange sculptures of the Buddha, Hindu Gods, and contemporary symbols, is one mans dream to express himself and try to reach his Master. 
     Luang Pu, a Lao national, fell into a hole as a child and there he met Kaewkoo, an ascetic who introduced Luang to many elements of the underworld which set him on his course to become a Brahmanic yogi-priest-shaman.  With his own unique blend of Hindu and Buddhist philosophy, mythology and iconography, Luang developed a large following in Northeastern Thailand, which was his adopted home after the 1975 communist takeover in Laos, where he had been working on a similar project. 
     The park is a collection of bizarre cement statiesw of Shiva, Vishnu, Buddha and every other Hindu and Buddhist deity imaginable as well as lots of secular figures.  The most bizarre sculpture is a 25 meter coiled naga with Buddha sitting at the base of a multiheaded hood.
     My favorite setting was a depiction of the Wheel of Life.  One enters through a giant mouth and follow the wheel which depicts the many stages and options of one throughout life. 
     Unfortunately, Luang was imprisoned by the King because of a negative remark he had made and was imprisoned , and then passed away a year after his confinement.
     The experience was wonderful, quiet, serene and ended with a water drink by a small pond filled with huge hungry catfish.

More adventures in Nong Khai

     Every morning at 5:00 we hear the bell chiming from the wats. There are so many wats here-more than other parts of Thailand. Nobody knows why. This NE region is also the poorest if the land, but rates the highest on the happiness scale. Read that material stuff isn't so valued and people look inside for their peace.
My big cup of filtered coffee has been delivered to me as I sit here looking at the Mekong and wonder how I'll pull myself away from Paradise.
    There are a few problems here like Dengue Fever, which comes from infected mosqitoes. Preventatives like staying away from water filled areas during dusk and dawn, wearing long sleeves and pants, and sleeping with netting in a screened in room. The situuation has improved since the flooding has decreased and dry season is here. I have heard that Chiangmai has suffered more than this NE area
     Burma elections are over. Violence and deaths took place in the northern area, Mae Sot, border town. In July Burma closed the border crearing hardships for both the Thai and Burmese.  At election time the Karin of Burma occupied a Burmese guard station and thus began another period of violence.  Burmese were killed and many had to flee to Thailand in order to avoid the conflict. How sad.
   It is hard to imagine such tragedy sitting here in such tranquility on the banks of the Mekong.  We are so close that I can even hear the dogs on the Lao bang barking. I wonder if the Thai dogs understand them?
     Until later.

Biking around Nong Khai

              
                                                                  Buddhist Monks
Northeast Thailand is a little paradise.
     The Mut Mee Guesthouse is a delight situated on the banks of the Mekong.  Its name refers to the unique fiber technique which we call Ikat, dyed strings or threads which provide the shadowy figures in the Thai weaving world.
    We are staying in the owner's extra bedroom unit, basic but w lovely hard mattress and shiny dark wood flooring.  A lovely bed with mosquito netting provides a romantic Hollywood touch to our room.  The food service with both Thai and Western selections is on the honor system and  thus we keep a tab of our expenses, which they tally nightly.
     The garden area is so lovely with massive fill trees which provide shade.  I am so much more comfortable with the cooler temperature this year.
     We spent most of the day on our Honda bike looking for Ban Nong Song Hong,a village of Ikat. Seems like that has moved 70 K, but we did meet Nisa Chong's daughter at her fabric shop and saw some ikat pieces, Lao weaving, and Kit style weaving done in this area.
     En route we stopped at an incredible shop of fabulous designed wearables, nobody spoke English but did see the name, Home Silk label on several pieces. Creativity in design and use of fabrics and trims.
     Returned to the Village Weavers in central Nong Khai and purchased a weaving of ikat and brocade done here in the Issan area decades ago.  Price was $70.
     Lunched at Pantawee Hotel, excellent value. Then rode in countryside checking out rice paddies, wetlands and many charming friendly villages in the surrounding area.
     Enjoyed fruit lassies and returned to our cottage.

Adios Bangkok

November 6,2010
Sunday

City noise has diminished considerably today, Sunday. We aren't bothered by the noise here at Golden Palace.
A lively conversation at breakfast with Rosemary and Yogi about the ladyboy districts of Thailand. The Vietnam war R&R was a great stimulator of this sex activity. Last night we journeyed to the hooker street, ate dinner at Seven Seas and watched the activities of the lady boys.
Rosemary told me that there is an island frequented by European women in search of young boys. Lonely Planet probably has the info.

Rosemary Nightingale www.SquawValleyHerbGardens.com 559-332-2909 or jamu-gem@hotmail.com -Bali 081-237-971--381. She recommends Bangkoks Lamphu Tree House.email- hotel@la
Phutreehotel.com. Or www.lamphutreehotel.com.

We are preparing for the night train to Nong Khai. Departs tonight arriving tomorrow am at 8.

Costs of living this year.
Hotel is 1350 baht about $42. Per night w breakfast for both of us. Skytrain cost to Chattachack is 40 baht about $1.35 each way per person. Our main meals are running about $35. Train fare w sleeper is $40 per person. Massage varies 200-400 for foot massage of 1 hr.

The temp is most comfortable right now. So nice to not sweat all the time.

How are the elections going in Burma? They are tomorrow.
Good-bye for now.

Bangkok -Chatachack Market

                                                         Bangkok Skytrain

November 6, 2010

     Set off on Skytrain for the humongus Chattachack market. Skytrain was packed with fellow shoppers. With Nancy Chandlers map in hand, we headed for the the ethnic clothing and jewelry sections. We found the shops that we visited last year, bit searched everywhere for our favorite enclosed fabric and textile locale .
     The cleanliness of Bangkok impresses me. The Skytrain is immaculate, no garbage or papers anywhere. No food is allowed on the cars.The streets are kept so clean.
     The people are gentle and keep calm about activities sround them. Everywhere we go someone is there to help us - crossing the street, with directions, giving us their place in line. I never feel that I have to be watching for someone to take advantage of me.
     Yesterday we visited The Center For Creative Design located off the Skytrain stop near us. Unique exhibit of creative designs throughout th 20th Century. Included housewares, transportation, clothing, tools, etc.

Bangkok - 11/4/2010

Bangkok, Thailand
Golden palace hotel, Sukhumvit and soi 1

Arrival after 30 door-to-door hours from Yakima to bangkok.
Alaska air to LA, then JAL to Tokyo and Bangkok.

                                                          Sukhumvit Area, Bangkok
Bangkok feels better than I had remembered.
Hotel is great centrally located at base of Skytrain and in heart of tmt restaurant area as well as near little Middle Eastern neighborhood, hooker locale snd great med center. It is good value $38 which includes wi-fi,swim pool and hearty breakfast. Next door is great spa, Hansar, with a wide range of body works.

Thai exchange rate has changed some with 29 Baht to the dollar. Our dollar went further last year.

On our way to visit with Nim, Thai textile specialist, we walked along lovely
Boulevard of embassies and classy hotels. The American site is most inviting with spacing grounds an buildings. Reminded me of our days in Cairo .

Eight Hours And .......

      No news today about Thailand's recent flooding, worse in 50 years.  Bangkok's river banks were filled with more than 4 million sand bags last week to protect people and property.  What's happening now?
     Our itinerary is :
Yakima-Seattle (6:AM), Seattle-LA (8:AM), LA-Tokyo ( (12:50PM), Tokyo-Bangkok (8:15AM).  I'll let you know how many total air hours that will be.  Airlines are Alaska and Japan Air.
     Luggage is light.  Both suitcases qualify for carry-on size, but we will probably check them since there will be no extra charge.  We both have back packs, mine is very small.
     We have one reservation in a Bangkok guesthouse and after that, we're open to options.
     Check-off list is complete so off for a good night's sleep and up tomorrow ready for..........dreaming about ikat (the design threads dyed before weaving as seen below).
                                                                           Ikat

                                                 Dyed threads on the loom ready for weaving