Friday, January 23, 2015

10. BURMA - BAGAN



Sunrise in Bagan
Wonderful View from Hotair Balloon




GOLDEN BAGAN

     Arrival at the Umbra Hotel in Bagan area after a 45 minute flight from Mandalay,  We rented electric motorbike and began the exploration of more than 4000 pagodas and stupas. Dating back to the 12th  Century.  With thousands of temples, pagodas, ordination halls, it was extremely confusing figuring out where to begin our adventure!  The three structures included here were some of our favorites.   


     This early center of Burmese power built superb temples of brick and decorated inside with frescos and topped with gilded pinnacles combining Hindu and Buddhist images with colorful local nats (spirits).  Some historians believe that there were 55 kings who ruled Bagan beginning with the rule of King Anawrahta in 1044 AD.  He is considered the ruler who established Theravada Buddhism among his royalty and population.





UPALI THEIN ORDINATION HALL



    The Upali Thein Ordination Hall dates from the 13th  Century. It is said to have been built by a monk named Upali to commemorate King Narapatisithu choosing an heir from his 5 sons .  There is a circle and star frescoe on ceiling and other wonderful frescoes of daily Bagan life (painted in 18th Century) that we were not allowed to photograph.   

Upali Thein Ordination Hall

Frescoes on the Ceiling 

                                  ANANDA TEMPLE


     Ananda Temple-- 1090-1105 ...One of the most loved and largest of all Bagan.   It illustrates the stylistic end of the early Bagan period.  In  1990 the temple spires were guilded  on its 900th  anniversary.  Glorious huge teak doors, Exterior includes more than 500 glazed tiles of Jataka scenes (stories of Buddha's reincarnation).  Inside  the inner cube are  31 foot buddhas and two lacquer statues who are to represent King Kyanzittha and  Shin Arahan,the monk who initiated King Anawhrata to Theravada Buddhism.  Lovely spires throughout...

Massive Ananda Temple



The Original Wooden Image of Kassapa Buddha
Crafted to Show Changing Facial Expressions According to Angle of Viewer
9.5 meters 

Glazed Tiles from the exterior base of Temple showing Budhhas Reincarnation


SHWEZIGON

Shwezigon Temple -- 1102 .... Gold covered dome rising out of three rising terraces is located in Nuang U. Rocks used to build  the pagoda were passed along devotees standing for six miles! 


Golden Shwezigon
   
 Inside the pagoda compound are images of 37 nats (spirits) to whom many Buddhists still pray. These are the pre-Budhhist (animist) spirits that were officially endorsed by a Buddhist monarchy in a compromising gesture towards a public reluctant to endorse Buddhism.





      I loved one of the Shwezigon Pavilions with wood carved figures relating stories of the Jataka (detailing the past lives of Buddha),  the Ramayama, and a folktale about two characters nemed Hti Lat and Po On.



How I Enjoyed These Precious Woodcarvings



Cows Enjoying Bagan Temples
Typical Commercial Scene Entering the Pagodas
Daughters of Commercial Stand Vendors

   My favorite Bagan buildings were the Upali Thein ordination hall for its wall frescoes and the Ananda Temple with its glorious large style, magnificently decorated teak doors, and charming carved tiles illustrating Bagan culture.



Signage Near Bagan Pagodas


    Our 3 day Bagan visit was a delight and the e-bike transportation was so convenient.     Afternoon swims at the beautiful Umbra Hotel pool helped us deal with the heat.  Dinners at Queens restaurant nearby and 6 am walks to catch the pagodas at sunrise were beautiful.




  Good-bye Bagan and Burma.  What a diverse experience. I so appreciated the generosity and kindness of the people of Burma.    We loved the journey.  Glad to have you  share the land and people with us.  




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