Friday, January 23, 2015

10. BURMA - BAGAN



Sunrise in Bagan
Wonderful View from Hotair Balloon




GOLDEN BAGAN

     Arrival at the Umbra Hotel in Bagan area after a 45 minute flight from Mandalay,  We rented electric motorbike and began the exploration of more than 4000 pagodas and stupas. Dating back to the 12th  Century.  With thousands of temples, pagodas, ordination halls, it was extremely confusing figuring out where to begin our adventure!  The three structures included here were some of our favorites.   


     This early center of Burmese power built superb temples of brick and decorated inside with frescos and topped with gilded pinnacles combining Hindu and Buddhist images with colorful local nats (spirits).  Some historians believe that there were 55 kings who ruled Bagan beginning with the rule of King Anawrahta in 1044 AD.  He is considered the ruler who established Theravada Buddhism among his royalty and population.





UPALI THEIN ORDINATION HALL



    The Upali Thein Ordination Hall dates from the 13th  Century. It is said to have been built by a monk named Upali to commemorate King Narapatisithu choosing an heir from his 5 sons .  There is a circle and star frescoe on ceiling and other wonderful frescoes of daily Bagan life (painted in 18th Century) that we were not allowed to photograph.   

Upali Thein Ordination Hall

Frescoes on the Ceiling 

                                  ANANDA TEMPLE


     Ananda Temple-- 1090-1105 ...One of the most loved and largest of all Bagan.   It illustrates the stylistic end of the early Bagan period.  In  1990 the temple spires were guilded  on its 900th  anniversary.  Glorious huge teak doors, Exterior includes more than 500 glazed tiles of Jataka scenes (stories of Buddha's reincarnation).  Inside  the inner cube are  31 foot buddhas and two lacquer statues who are to represent King Kyanzittha and  Shin Arahan,the monk who initiated King Anawhrata to Theravada Buddhism.  Lovely spires throughout...

Massive Ananda Temple



The Original Wooden Image of Kassapa Buddha
Crafted to Show Changing Facial Expressions According to Angle of Viewer
9.5 meters 

Glazed Tiles from the exterior base of Temple showing Budhhas Reincarnation


SHWEZIGON

Shwezigon Temple -- 1102 .... Gold covered dome rising out of three rising terraces is located in Nuang U. Rocks used to build  the pagoda were passed along devotees standing for six miles! 


Golden Shwezigon
   
 Inside the pagoda compound are images of 37 nats (spirits) to whom many Buddhists still pray. These are the pre-Budhhist (animist) spirits that were officially endorsed by a Buddhist monarchy in a compromising gesture towards a public reluctant to endorse Buddhism.





      I loved one of the Shwezigon Pavilions with wood carved figures relating stories of the Jataka (detailing the past lives of Buddha),  the Ramayama, and a folktale about two characters nemed Hti Lat and Po On.



How I Enjoyed These Precious Woodcarvings



Cows Enjoying Bagan Temples
Typical Commercial Scene Entering the Pagodas
Daughters of Commercial Stand Vendors

   My favorite Bagan buildings were the Upali Thein ordination hall for its wall frescoes and the Ananda Temple with its glorious large style, magnificently decorated teak doors, and charming carved tiles illustrating Bagan culture.



Signage Near Bagan Pagodas


    Our 3 day Bagan visit was a delight and the e-bike transportation was so convenient.     Afternoon swims at the beautiful Umbra Hotel pool helped us deal with the heat.  Dinners at Queens restaurant nearby and 6 am walks to catch the pagodas at sunrise were beautiful.




  Good-bye Bagan and Burma.  What a diverse experience. I so appreciated the generosity and kindness of the people of Burma.    We loved the journey.  Glad to have you  share the land and people with us.  




9. BURMA: MANDALAY

Ordination Hall on Mandalay Hill


  A two hour taxi drive to Mandalay from Pyin Oo Lwin was nerve-wracking on the narrow, shoulder-less road filled with hundreds of huge cargo trucks.  Finding  a clean light-filled  room in  the Royal City Hotel was delightful.  




Royal City Hotel

Mandalay Location on Ayerarwady River



     Mandalay was once the magnificent royal city of the Myanmar kings.  The Palace was located inside the 2.5 kilometer square Mandalay Fort, ringed by a 230 foot wide moat and 26 feet high walls of deep red-brown stone. In 1885 the British ejected thee Burmese elite and deported King Thibaw, then demolished part of the royal city to create a parade ground and complex for their governor.


       Kuthodaw Pagoda was our first outing in Mandalay.  It is known for having the longest book in the world, which is located within these small white stupas.  What impressed me most was the sound of beautiful chanting by many young people who were standing under a huge banyan or holy tree.   

Offering Prayers at Kuthodaw Pagoda


The Holy ( Banyan) Tree 

Praying Inside the Monastery



     Mandalay Hill is a major view-point and requires either a 45 minute barefoot climb or a taxi ride to arrive at the escalator for the Shwenandaw Monastery.  There are also elegant monasteries and an Ordination Hall nearby (built for a former king).     Many dedicated Buddhists make the hillside climb in bare feet.  We climbed the hill in taxi and then took an escalator to the pagoda. 
  
  Carved  out of teak wood in the 1880's, this temple monastery was surrounded by glass mosaic pillars, many of which are now being replaced by contributions.  The view of pancake flat Mandalay is excellent on a clear day. 




Arriving at Shwenandaw Monastery with Mandalay View


MAnother Visitor 
      Mandalay has always has a reputation for outstanding craftsmanship.   Here it is possible to visit gold pounders and watch how gold leaf is crarfted out of gold fragments.  Other craft shops to visit include: gold embroidery, fabric murals, laquerware art, puppet crafts and of course, weaving. 

.  
Puppets Are Popular and Beautiful

    My special interest was to visit the many busy looms clicking and clacking away weaving the traditional Myanmar silk pattern designs.  Amanapura has been a weaving center for hundreds of years and many small family weaving businesses are producing colorful fabric for the coveted longyi (wrap around skirts that most women wear). 

    For years there were only about three designs for the traditional silk longyis (sarongs) of the Burmese .   Nowadays these weavers work hard to come up with new designs for the new season starting in October.  


Traditional Woven Designs of Mandalay


    For years there were only about three designs for silk longyis.  Nowadays these weavers work hard to come up with new designs for the new season starting in October.  The names given to the designs are as lovely as the weavings.




The Longyi (sarong) Style Fits All

        Eating lunch by the nearby mile long U Bein teak bridge by the Ayerarwady River enroute to Amarapura was a great way to end the day.




Young Nuns Walking on the Mile-long U Bein Bridge 

     Market life is vibrant in Mandalay.  It's always fun to view the variety of activities in these markets.
Drink Menu at a Market Restaurant
   
Lovely Young Girls 




Women from India? in Mandalay Market

Transport Comes in Many Varieties




Who Is Pulling this Load?


Comfort for Some





What a Hard Life!



Good-bye to Mandalay.....and get ready for the pagoda city of Bagan...and a farewell to our Burmese journey......




Tuesday, January 6, 2015

8. Burma: Pyin Oo Lwin

PYIN OO LWIN

COME TO A GARDEN CITY




Journey from Hsipaw to Pyin Oo Lwin



Local Taxi



View of Main Street

     A change in worlds describes the green garden town of Pyin Oo Lwin.  Formerly a cool refreshing hill station for British administrators during hot spells, it  is still  a verdant delight today.  Our lovely garden setting residence was the Royal Parkview Hotel, located next to the well manicured National Kandawgyi Gardens


     Begun during  the British occupancy in 1924, this 435-acre botanical garden features more than 480 species of flowers, shrubs, and trees many annotated with their scientific nomenclature in Latin,  The maintenance continues today as you can see .  


Views of National Kandawgyi Gardens



A List of Different Plant Displays


Beautifully manicured

     We so appreciated the variety of formal colorful floral arrangements, the Norfolk Island and Monkey Puzzle trees, bamboo and cactus varieties all situated around the picturesque Lake Kandawgyi

Varieties Abound

      


Burmese Women Prepare for New Exhibits
What a Wedding Pix!



A Favorite Photo of the Gardens As Sun Sets




     Fascinating to fine these young Buddhist nuns walking along main street gathering food and money for their daily meal.  


A Morning Walk





     We wanted to stay much longer in this beautiful garden setting!    


     Leaving town I found my treasure shop...Pacific World Curio, owned by a former Bangladeshi and filled with tons of Burmese ethnic options: masks, Naga and Chin jewelry, and vintage Kachin textile.....!!!   A small paradise.  
     
     Dear Traveler..... please rest awhile before our next journey.  You will find yourself ...........................................................

                         "On the Road to Mandalay".........